Hair Care
is an overall term for parts of hygiene and cosmetology involving the hair on
the human head. Hair care will differ according to one's hair type and according
to various processes that can be applied to hair.
All hair is not the same; indeed, hair is a manifestation of human
diversity.
Black Hair Care is 100 % uniquely different from others and therefore has a full
page dedicated to hair care for Afro American.
In this article, 'Hair care' is taken to mean care of hair on the human head,
but mention should be made of process and services which impact hair on other
parts of the body. This includes men‘s and women’s facial, pubic, and other body
hair, which may be dyed, trimmed, shaved, plucked, or otherwise removed with
treatments such as waxing, sugaring, and threading. These services are offered
in salons, barber shops, and day spas, and products are available commercially
for home use. Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though
these are provided (in the US) by licensed professionals in medical offices or
specialty spas.
Biological processes and hygiene
Care of the hair and care of the scalp skin may appear separate, but are
actually intertwined because hair grows from beneath the skin. The living parts
of hair (hair follicle, hair root, root sheath, and sebaceous gland) are beneath
the skin, while the actual hair shaft which emerges (the cuticle which covers
the cortex and medulla) has no living processes. Damage or changes made to the
visible hair shaft cannot be repaired by a biological process, though much can
be done to manage hair and ensure that the cuticle remains intact. (For more
information on the biological processes involved in hair production, see Hair.)
Scalp skin, just as any other skin on the body, must be kept healthy to
ensure a healthy body and healthy hair production. If the scalp is not cleaned
regularly, by the removal of dead skin cells, toxins released through the skin
or external hazards (such as bacteria, viruses, and chemicals) may create a
breeding ground for infection. However, not all scalp disorders are a result of
bacterial infections. Some arise inexplicably, and often only the symptoms can
be treated for management of the condition (example: dandruff). There are also
bacteria that can affect the hair itself, but in MEDC's (More Economically
Developed Countries), this is much rarer. Head lice is probably the most common
hair and scalp ailment world-wide. Head lice can be removed with great attention
to detail, and studies show it is not necessarily associated with poor hygiene.
(Indeed, even well-to-do households can experience head lice. More recent
studies reveal that head lice actually thrive in clean hair.) In this way, hair
washing as a term may be a bit misleading, as what is necessary in healthy hair
production and maintenance is often simply cleaning the surface of the scalp
skin, the way the skin all over the body requires cleaning for good hygiene.
The sebaceous glands in human skin produce sebum, which is composed primarily of
fatty acids. Sebum acts to protect hair and skin, and can inhibit the growth of
microorganisms on the skin. Sebum contributes to the skin’s slightly acidic
natural pH somewhere between 5 and 6.8 on the pH spectrum. This oily substance
gives hair moisture and shine as it travels naturally down the hair shaft, and
serves as a protective substance preventing the hair from drying out or
absorbing excessive amounts of external substances. Sebum is also distributed
down the hair shaft “mechanically” by brushing and combing. When sebum is
present in excess, the roots of the hair can appear oily, greasy, generally
darker than normal, and the hair may stick together.
Hair cleaning
To combat this appearance of “dirty” hair, and to remove actual dirt and other
contaminants and external substances like sweat, the hair may be washed. Often
hair is washed as part of a shower or bathing with a specialized soap called
shampoo. Those with damaged or curly hair, or sensitive scalps, may benefit from
cleansing with a light Hair conditioner, instead. However, this requires that
only water-soluble products are applied to the hair and scalp.
Shampoo is helped by warm temperature water, which helps open the cuticle
of the hair and release any oils or other substances beneath. Pure water has a
pH of 7, and when shampoo has removed the slightly acidic sebum from the hair,
the pH on the surface of the scalp is raised. Freshly shampooed hair can feel
tangled or rough, and hair which is left to dry after a shampoo only can be
excessively dry and coarse. To smooth the hair, Conditioner is often used.
Conditioners may employ ingredients of an acidic nature to balance the hair and
scalp pH. Many modern conditioners also contain plant oils or synthetic
ingredients such as plastics to coat the hair shaft and smooth it out. Acidic
rinses or chemical conditioners can help with hair detangling and manageability,
which helps prevent damage.
The sebaceous glands increase or reduce their secretions in order to maintain
proper skin protection and pH. When the skin is regularly stripped of its
natural sebum, the sebaceous glands respond with an overproduction. People
observe that they “must” wash their hair, for example, once every other day,
otherwise their hair becomes oily; however, their sebaceous glands have simply
adapted to their hygienic cycle. Changes to the hygienic cycle result in changes
to sebum secretion.
Modern shampoos and conditioners are not necessary to maintain clean and healthy
hair, and indeed, many cultures do not have these products at all. Different
methods are available for those people who wish to return to this “natural” hair
state, where healthy hair can be maintained with scalp massage, water-only
washes, or using cleaning agents very rarely. Natural baseline sebum secretion
varies by individual, and returning the scalp to this state takes time. This
process may often include using cleaning agents, but is generally geared towards
leaving the sebum on the scalp and hair for as long as possible to reacclimatize
the scalp to producing less sebum. This process may not be for everyone, as some
who try this method never reach a point where they feel their hair can be clean
for any extended period of time without washing with conventional shampoo.
Using cold water as a final rinse can help close the scales of the
cuticle, and can help constrict the openings of the sebaceous glands to help
moderate sebum production.
Western cleaning products and methods
A more alkaline rated (meaning a high pH) shampoo is stronger and harsher to
one's hair. This can mean that the hair will be left dry and brittle. Shampoos
containing citric, lactic or phosphoric acid are most likely balanced. Oily hair
might require a more acidic pH shampoo. Anti dandruff shampoos have been
implicated in irritation of the scalp, and an increase in the production of
dandruff. Anti dandruff shampoos may be available Over the counter or on
prescription, based on the strength of the medicine. Dandruff, despite common
belief, is more often related to too much, or an issue somehow with, sebum
production and not dry scalp skin. Not all flakes are dandruff and only a
qualified physician can determine not only that one indeed does have dandruff;
but also, what type of dandruff one may have. If one is experiencing redness of
the scalp skin, bumps on the scalp skin, and any weeping from sores and/or
bleeding in addition to flakes, professional medical diagnosis should be sought.
Conditioner choice is greatly dependent upon hair type and hair status,
such as colored, permed, dry, and the like. Commercial conditioners contain a
variety of ingredients such as plant oils, pro-vitamins, acidic compounds,
plastics, stabilizers, thickeners, emulsifiers, and fragrances.
Conditioners may sometimes add weight to hair, creating an adverse effect in the
shampooing/conditioning process. Some conditioners, especially those containing
a silicone compound, may coat the hair and lead to build up on the hair, making
it dull, and lead to harsher shampoo use; in a sense, an endless cycle of
shampooing and conditioning. When used correctly, however, conditioners are
helpful in temporarily coating the hair to increase shine and ease tangles.
Buildup is when the hair has a sticky or gummy feel, the conditioner choice
seems to work less well, or the hair may be more prone to tangling. Buildup
occurs when the minerals from water and/or products are not rinsed away during
shampooing. A clarifying shampoo may be required to remove it. Clarifying
removes all things on the surface of the hair strands, essentially leaving the
hair without moisture. Failure of conditioning as part of a clarifying hair wash
process may lead to excessive drying of hair.
Viable natural ways to condition the hair include rinses with lemon juice,
lime juice, or vinegar.
The use of acid rinses may assist those who have itchy scalps, depending
on the cause for the itchiness. Hair which is lacking sebum may also be softened
using plant oils such as olive oil and coconut oil.
Washing
There are various ways to shampoo hair, and selection of a method is
determined by one's hair type and available resources.
The most common method of hair washing is shampooing followed by conditioning.
If one is a daily hair washer, then a repeating of the hair shampoo application
may not be necessary. However, if one waits a day or more between hair washings,
then the first shampoo may only break up the surface tension of sebum, and a
second shampoo application to the scalp hair may be necessary to thoroughly
remove the sebum. The need for a second application is not related to hair
length.
To help lift any scaly skin, detritis, and sebum from the scalp, especially for
those who suffer from scalp skin ailments, very gently scratching the surface of
the skin with a small fine toothed comb may help to loosen and lift grime and
dead skin cells before washing the hair. This may help create a cleaner scalp
during the hair washing process.
Micro-fiber towels that help absorb the water from hair faster than
conventional towels are available on the market. These are particularly helpful
for those with very thick hair that may otherwise take a while to dry,
especially if air drying.
Shampoo and conditioner should be used moderately.
Washing with shampoo and conditioner more than 3 times a week may dry hair,
making it "frizzy." |
